Chardonnay comes in so many shapes and sizes. California versions are more often than not oaked to the nines (or 200+ on the wine geekspeak, barrel toast meter). Burgundian Chablis sees more stainless steel for more sea, salt and mineral effect. This group of overwhelmingly gregarious wines collectively tease the edge of the Chardonnay abyss.
Calera Thirty-Fifth Anniversarry Vintage Chardonnay 2010 (713313, $24.95) seems a bit bobbery but that’s probably just the repeated shots to the head from the butterscotch-glazed pineapple smoking on the BBQ. Concussed Central Coast Chardonnay would best be served like a Piña Colada at an all-inclusive. 86
Cambria Katherine’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 (980490, $29.95) the precocious starlet flirts with a grove of oak and an orchard of Golden Delicious. Toasted brioche smothered in quince jam and marzipan. This Kate is wide-eyed like mother Goldie and nasally refined like Pinkie. 89
Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Gold Label Chardonnay 2010 (708305, $19.95) shows off a texture so oily you could roast a pig in it. With a mouthful of tropical fruit and a Carrie Underwood lilt, the DCGL is “free as a bird up on a wire.” Nobody told me so much Chardonnay would taste like this. 84
Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2009 (59576, $27.95) gives up the odd sensation of green figs melting into thick caramel. Give it points though because man they’ll eat this cheddar up. 85
Ridge Estate Chardonnay 2010(241646, $49.95) opens wide the Santa Cruz Mountains window mythos of quality that the Monte Bello Vineyard defines and shares with the likes of Mt. Eden. Crushed almond cookie and cake, mouth-watering citrus and just before ripe banana. “Smell of the bakery from across the street. ” Intense late creamy push. Balance, structure, elegance. Clean like listening to Jimmie Rodgers on my lunch break sing “the wide open spaces all around me, the moon and the stars up above.” 91
Snoqualmine Naked Chardonnay 2009 (158501, $14.95) initializes with sulphur and rice vinegar then disbands like a talking head. Garden perfume, a skinless red apple past prime and dissolving into sauce. ”Like and Adam and an Eve…now, it’s nothing but flowers.” 86
Joffré E Hijas Grand Chardonnay 2010 (279794, $17.95) bottle was corked. NR
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay 2011 (468728, $18.95) of ghee, masala spice and fermenting melon is certainly an acquired taste. Complex and cunning, heavily dotted with barrel notes and funkified by hard cheese curds. It’s “got to shout and shing-a-ling.” Ample acidity to keep it lively. 88
Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru 2008 (159236, $29.95) reminds me of Paul Pender’s Quarry Road in tinct, tart and vein. Beyond that this vaporous Chardonnay is all over the map. Expressive and disjointed, “emotion revealed as the ocean maid.” Gives generously a plethora of scents. Cranshaw, pomello, lime zest and something from the sea; a spongy, gelatinous cucumber. And you and I will enjoy this big, extracted and apocalyptic Chablis close to the water’s edge. 89
Bubbles from VINTAGES, June 23, 2012
Good to go!
